Didn’t have time to watch all of Photoshop Week? Or maybe you watched it, but were overwhelmed by all the information crammed into one week. I’ve seen semester-length college classes that don’t teach as much as what creativeLIVE did in one very-intensive week. So whether you missed them, or just need a review, here is my list of top tips:
(I am not receiving any commission to endorse either Adobe nor creativeLIVE)
#10 – Use Adjustment Layers
This one is pretty basic so I didn’t rate it too high, but it is essential enough that if you are not doing it already -you need to learn about it. This is essential for non-destructive editing. Want to adjust the brightness/contrast/levels/colors/etc of your images? Do it on an adjustment layer. Want the effect to only affect part of the image? Place a layer mask on your adjustment layer. The original photo will remain in pristine condition.
- Save files as PSD to preserve adjustment layers created
#9 – Auto Align Layers
Want to combine two images, but they weren’t shot on a tripod and therefore have slightly different perspectives? No sweat – place them as two layers in the same document and the top layer can be automatically moved and/or warped to perfectly align with the bottom layer:
- (select both layers) Edit > Auto-Align Layers…
- customize settings (Auto does an excellent job on most projects)
#8 – Actions
If you do the same things to many photos, there is a way to program the actions you take in order to automate the process. A similar method can be done in Lightroom/Adobe Camera Raw using presets instead of actions.
#7 -Blending optionsCredit: Ben Willmore
Many people are familiar with brush modes and layer modes that change how layers interact with each other, which can change the colors and capacities of different parts of the image. Fewer people know about the “blending options” which can be found under the “fx” button at the bottom of the layers panel. Here one can change the opacity different parts of the selected layer based on brightness of either that layer, or the brightness of the layers underneath – in the gray, red, green and/or blue channels. Alt+click on the sliders to break them into two pieces that can be positioned separately to allow for a more gradual blend. This effect can be modified at any time, even without converting to a smart object first.
#6 – Warp an image around another as if it was printed thereCredit: Lindsay Adler
This one is rather complicated.
- Save a separate black and white copy of the image to be the background (layer 1) as PDF file. This is the texture file. Leave this open as a separate tab!
- In a new file, open the background image (layer 1) and the image to be superimposed (layer 2) as separate layers.
- Image > Apply Image
- Under “source” choose the name of the texture file (the list will only show other tabs that are open)
- Under “layer” choose the name of layer 1
- Chose a blend mode, (such as “overlay” or “difference”) and any other settings you want.
#5 – Work in Adobe RGB, not sRGBCredit: Kevin Kubota
Photoshop default usually sets images to sRGB mode, which allows for fewer colors than other color management systems like RGB. It can always be exported at a lower color setting like sRGB for photos being uploaded
- Edit > Color Settings
#4 – Edit texture and color separatelyCredit: Lindsay Adler
This is similar to tip #6, but with a few differences:
- The background image (layer 1) and the superimposed image (layer 2) should be different copies of the same file
- The settings in the dialogue box will be different depending on whether it is an 8-bit image or a 16-bit image:
- For an 8-bit image, use the blending style “subtract” on a scale of 2 and an offset of 128
- For a 16-bit image, use the blending style “add” on a scale of 2, an offset of 0, and check the box for “invert”
#3 – Paint realistically to create art based on your photosCredit: Jack Davis
Jack Davis not only came up with an amazing and unexpected use of the pattern brush tool, but he gives away all of his custom brushes and actions (as well as a tutorial PDF) all for free to anyone who likes his facebook page. The results are stunning, really look like actual paintings, and the steps to create them are simple and easy to understand. In a word, “wow!”
#2 – Convert for Smart FiltersCredit: Dave Cross
Want the ultimate in non-destructive editing? Use Smart Objects to continually adjust any filters or other adjustments made to the image. No effects are finalized – come back and modify the settings any time. Smart filters can also be nested inside other smart filters.
- Filters > Convert for Smart FIlters
- Save as PSD file to preserve layers and smart objects
- Raw photos can be imported as smart objects using Adobe Camera Raw, enabling you to make changes in Camera Raw at any time
#1 – Retouch in Lightroom / Adobe Camera RawCredit: Jack Davis
You don’t even need to use Photoshop for many retouches – some things can be done quicker, easier, and with better results in Lightroom. (Adobe Camera Raw, which comes with Photoshop, has the same features as Lightroom.) It is very powerful, and can adjust settings that can’t be adjusted in Photoshop, including luminance and clarity. Plus it includes many of the capabilities of Photoshop like global effects, targeted adjustments, and adjustment brushes. Snapshots can be created of each version of an image, which is stored in the image metadata resulting in a very small increase in the file size of the original image, rather than multiple large separate images.
- Photos don’t have to be shot in raw in order to edit them in Camera Raw
- Photos can be set to open in Adobe Camera Raw automatically: Edit > Preferences > File Handling > Camera Raw Preferences > Automatically open all supported JPEGs / TIFFs